School of Design

ULITA - an Archive of International Textiles

collar (inner)
Date: early 20th-mid 20th Century
Dimensions: 99 x 18.8 cm (39 x 7 3/8 in.)
Medium: silk, metallic thread
Made in: Japan
Collected in: Japan
Description: An embroidered kimono inner collar (uraeri?) on cream crepe silk. One of a group of 12 collars, this piece has two embroidered symmetrical panels. This embroidery in gold, orange, yellow, white and blue depicts a phoenix perched in a paulownia tree with bamboo leaves underneath. There is a gold warp thread along the edge of the selvedge. The fabric has been folded and stitched in the centre, and has folds at each end ready for construction. Stitches found in this piece are couching, satin stitch, stem stitch and couched single strand gold threat over satin stitch (for the back of the bird). A small paper label has the manufacturer name in Japanese.
Inv. No.: 2014.38
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